Locating queen size bed in a small bedroom

A small bedroom can be challenging for decoration, but it becomes even more frustrating when you add a large bed. The good news is that there are ways to make it feel bigger, even with the presence of prominent cabinet. Think of your room as a haven of rest instead of a multi-purpose area, and decorate it with that intention.


  1. Add Color. Paint the walls of your room using bright light colors. It emphasizes only to add the illusion of depth by painting the wall on which rests your bed. If you choose to use wallpaper, choose the vertical lines to make the room look bigger to attract attention upward.
  2. Place your bed against the center wall in the middle of the room, to create free space on both sides. If you have one with head and foot, discard the latter to create more space.
  3. Use linens and colorful cushions to draw attention to bed. As this will be the focal point of the small room; accentuate using bright colors or fun patterns to attract attention. A canopy is another idea for a small bedroom as it uses vertical space and adds a focus of extra attention.
  4. Reduce clutter and storing large furniture items in drawers under the bed. Too much furniture can cram your room and make it look even smaller. Buy containers that can slide under the bed to store things, and leverages other storage spaces.
  5. Avoid the profusion of pictures on the walls. Choose a beautiful and unique piece, or hang a mirror in place. Too much decoration on makes them seem smaller and therefore the fourth overall looks smaller. A mirror can provide an illusion of space, and one with a cute frame that hangs above the bed, gives a nice touch of decoration without being overdone.

Installing the sewer toilet

The plumbing is always a challenge, especially if you need to crawl under the house to do it. Install toilet drains properly it is crucial for the efficiency of the overall pipelines bathroom. Much of this has to do with proper ventilation of drains. If there is no air supply to the drains, they simply will not function.


  1. Cut a hole of 5.8 cm for the bottom panel of the wall behind the toilet with a saw to pierce. This will be for the vent pipe coming from below the ground. Secure the rim of the toilet to the floor with deck screws. Estate sure that the slots that occur in the rim of the toilet base are in the correct position for inserting the screws to the toilet base, If the flange has to move, see “Installing a toilet rim moved” in the Reference part of this article.
  2. Cut a short section of a tube of 3.8 cm in diameter with a precision saw. Take care that is long enough to fit under the floor from the wall. Put it through the hole of 5.8 cm. The rest of the drain line will be installed below the house.
  3. Applying PVC cleaner (or primer) to the elbow and the shoulder followed by adhesive. Install the elbow on the ledge below the floor giving a slight Thorson. Make sure it is “settled” and that it is turning in the right direction.
  4. Install the reducer in the short end of the vent pipe of small size you cut in Step 2. Install the “T” at the end of the elbow for an end point upward for ventilation and the other is down, Ensures reducing the “T” flipping up.
  5. Install sections of the sewer toilet using the method described in Step 2. Divide the different sections of pipe needed to connect to the line that leads to drainage or septic tank. Make sure it is enough downward angles to maintain the flow of water to its destination.
  6. Plumbers install a strap around the pipe under the house. Measure a piece long enough to reach around the tube and secured to the floor joists. It can be secured with screws or nails box.
  7. Cut a hole through the top panel of the wall for the vent pipe. See “Plumbing of a ventilation system” in the Reference section for more information about plumbing vent. Ensures coupler tubes to the tube end up off the floor. Cut a piece of vent pipe long enough to reach above the roof. Hence, short and ensures sufficient ventilation tubes to pass through the ceiling.

Installation tips for corners in drywall

The corners, the place where two drywalls connect, have to withstand the bumps and collisions every day. In general, one or two sheets of plaster must be cut to fit properly, exposing the cast crumbly center panel. The corners provide that measure of protection as bonus to cover the edges of the drywall.


The corners come in long strips which engage the walls of standard heights and are made ​​of both metal and plastic. The material is pre-folded to bend easily around the corner when applied. Both options come with material butt rounded edge or square edge. The choice of materials and design is based on individual tastes.

Cutting to size

Select a piece of a length lace from ceiling to about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) from the ground. Apply the trim Base after the wall is completed; This will protect the bottom edge of the drywall, as it will hide any space along the floor, A pair of tin snips or a hacksaw to cut through a butt. Try to avoid bending or twisting the butt of his way when the courts. If arcs are formed, they will be difficult to fill later.


Use a full strip butt cut to size for the wall instead of joining together two or more short sections. The patched style is more difficult to cover with joint compound and not look as straight and smooth as one piece. Place drywall screws in pre-drilled along each side of the butt-hole. Keep the screws eight or 10 inches (20.32 or 25.4 cm) apart and the material underlies in the butt so that the heads do not protrude. This will support the solid butt on the wall and make the final steps easier.

Apply paste

Pasta, joint compound and drywall compound all refer to the same material – a bonding agent used to hide and leveling and seal the joints between sheets of drywall. The compound is solid in a list formula to use or powder to be mixed with water. Material applied in several thin coats rather than a single thick layer. Spread the compound in a butt with a wide spatula, smoothing the material about six inches (15.24 cm) along both walls. The second layer should completely hide the butt material and soften few inches further, A final thin finish the task.

How to use baking soda to clean the carpet

Commercial products of cleaning of carpets can be expensive and may contain harsh chemicals. If you want to save money or just be greener, you can clean your carpets with a staple of the home, baking soda. This has absorption properties, which absorbs as much as odors stains without rubbing too. Its deodorant skills can be especially useful if your pet odors in carpets. For the baking soda working effectively as a carpet cleaner, you must use it properly.


  1. Cover the carpet with a light even coat of baking soda. Apply baking soda in a thicker layer on the dirty areas.
  2. Let the baking soda remain still in place for one hour or overnight. Vacuum the entire surface of the carpet and be sure to remove all traces of sodium bicarbonate.
  3. Examine the carpet to see if there are spots. If there are stains on the carpet, pour 1 cup of warm water in a small bucket or container. Add 2 tablespoons of mild liquid detergent to the water.
  4. Dip a sponge in the soapy water. Dry sponge gently on any carpet stain until it absorbs the liquid and stains disappear.
  5. Dampen a white cloth with warm water. Gently rub the stained areas of the carpet to rinse the persistent detergent. Let the carpet dry.

Tips & Warnings

  • Sodium bicarbonate tends to work more effectively on wet or greasy stains from the carpet.
  • Never rub strong stains or you could permanently damage the fibers. Excess pressure can also cause stains to penetrate more into the carpet.